A Quick Visit to San Francisco’s LI PO…and a Bonus Visit with TIKI BOB!

Just after the beginning of the year, my friend Vye came to visit at my temporary home (my friend Erich’s) in the Bay Area. She expressed interest in visiting San Francisco’s Chinatown. I’ve taken visitors to Chinatown many times. (I used to live in the city years ago.) I wasn’t very thrilled about the prospect, but for Vye I’d happily go. I’ve learned over the years to navigate that area of town and avoid many of the tourist traps Chinatown has waiting for visitors. I was also interested in checking out the new-ish Muni train (i.e. subway) that goes to Chinatown.

The three of us BART-ed into San Francisco. At the Powell Street station, we exited the train section and walked to the extreme east end of the station concourse where the new T-Line station had been added. The station is 100 feet below ground, making it the deepest building excavation in the city’s history.

Once in Chinatown, I led my friends around to the various side streets and alleyways, far less touristy (and crowded) than Grant—the central street through Chinatown. I took them to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company. (Gimmicky, but cute…and free!) I tried, unsuccessfully, to warn them away from a bad lunch at a small restaurant. (I am sure some exists, but I have never had decent Chinese food within Chinatown.) 

I suggested avoiding Grant Street as much as possible—with the exception of visiting Li Po. I always suggest to visitors that we stop there.

Opened in 1937, Li Po is the oldest bar in the city that has been operating under the same name since its inception. (There is another, slightly older bar, but it has changed hands and names several times through the years…) 

Aside from its vintage interior, the Li Po is also home to the Chinese Mai Tai. What’s a Chinese Mai Tai? Well, I’m not entirely sure. It’s a mixture of rums, juices, and “Chinese liqueur”, whatever that might be. The recipe and drink are actually trademarked! So says a letter on display from the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.

(Of course, for what it’s worth, Jenni’s phone number, 867-5309*, is also on display, handwritten on a scrap of paper and, well… it made me laugh!)(*If you know, you know.)

The Chinese Mai Tai is the bar’s signature drink. At only $12 (Up a buck from my last visit 2 ½ years ago), they certainly are affordable. What did my friends think? Both Erich and Vye (and even myself) found them rather potent. (I’d forgotten just how strong they are…)

While we sipped and I took pictures, we asked our very young, very attentive, very friendly and very new (He’d only been there a week and a half, I believe he said.) bartender a variety of questions about the place, the drink, and life in San Francisco as well. Ray, as it turns out, is a native San Franciscan. Chatting with him had been a highlight of our experience there. 

Even though I’ve been there several times, I took photos anyway. The Chinese lanterns add a cool look to the place (especially the really large one that is so old its silk is rotting on its frame). Faded wallpaper (original?) can still be seen between the beer signs and posted notices. There is also a small shrine area at the back of the bar in the corner. 

Despite the narrow façade, the bar has seating in a back room. There are two upper areas that overlook the bar, but both have been closed for years and seem to be used as storage. I seem to remember one of them open years ago, but I’m not sure. I can’t help but wonder what they were used for. Seating? Dancing? Office area? Ray didn’t know.

We didn’t stay long at the Li Po. It was just the one drink and we were done. On the way out, I noted the picture of Anthony Bourdain from when he visited the place in 2012. 

We toodled around Chinatown a while longer. When we were heading back, Erich said he wanted to stop by Union Square to see if the Christmas tree was still up. When we arrived, it had just been removed, but the ice skating rink was still operational. 

While we were there, it dawned on me. In all of the times I’d been in San Francisco, I had never seen Tiki Bob. The legendary bar, Tiki Bob’s, had been a San Francisco mainstay for nearly 30 years, opening in 1955 and closing in 1983. Today the former bar is a breakfast restaurant called Honey Honey Café & Crepery, but the original Tiki Bob mascot character still stands in the support column in front of the entrance—and I had never gone. 

Knowing that it was close, just a few blocks back on the corner of Post & Taylor, I headed off to see it. I hobbled down Geary and turned the corner at Taylor. There, at the corner, I saw a little bit of white peeking out at the corner. Oh my stars! Was this Tiki Bob at last? Yes, it was! How thrilling to see the legendary figure that still shows up in newly created mugs and other tiki ware. 

I spied a sign posted on a window. I secretly hoped it was a notice that alcohol would soon be served within and had a momentary daydream that someone was planning on rebuilding Tiki Bob’s in the space. Alas, it was not to be. It was just a no trespassing sign. I did take pictures of the inside through the windows, as the business was closed for the day. It was certainly roomier than I expected. I could only imagine what the interior had been like when Tiki Bob’s had been there. 

As I left, Tiki Bob was still standing there, smiling. Perhaps he was happy I’d come to see him. Perhaps he had a secret that only he knew. Perhaps a Tiki Bob’s would someday return to that spot. We can only hope.

Li Po
916 Grant Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 982-0072
http://lipolounge.com/

Tiki Bob / Honey Honey

599 Post Street (at Taylor)

San Francisco, CA 94102